After a few mellow rolls the ridge narrowed down and we had to be careful about cornices. At the base I ditched snowshoes for crampons and ice axe yes, one more transition and easily led across the degree traverse into the SW Face.
The traverse was then followed by some degree ascent on firm snow and 10 minutes later we were on the summit, soaking in incredible views towards all directions. Connor starting the snowshoeing on the south ridge. Looking back at our snowshoe tracks on the summit ridge. Connor traversing degree slope around the summit block. Then climbing degree firm snow for a substantial length. The shear faces and ridges gave some Alaskan feel. The summit of Mt. Persis with the Puget Sound lowlands behind.
Baker behind Three Fingers and Whitehorse Mtn. Glacier Peak with the Monte Cristo Group in front. Reversing the summit block was easy and instead of swapping gears for two times we opted to keep the crampons on the summit ridge. We carefully down-climbed the upper 50 m into the gully and then started plunging. We soon abandoned the plunging techniques in trade for glissading.
Needless to say, it was a super duper fun descent down into and out of the hourglass on our asses. In no time we were at the bottom of the gully strapping snowshoes back on. The traverse back to the east ridge and then down to our camp was without incidence. We spent as little time as possible to break camp. The descent to the degree crux pitch was easy but required caution. For the crux we opted for a single rappel using my 30 m rope.
Heading back across the steep traverse across the west side of summit block. Connor glissading the middle section of Hourglass Gully. We opted to glissade for as far as we could…. One last look at Baring Mountain, with Merchant Peak to its left. Back to the traverse, time to strap snowshoes back on. Small sluffs coming down the faces of Middle Index. Looking down past Lake Serene. Connor finishing the long side-hill traverse across the drop zone. Connor snowshoeing back up the access ridge.
Carefully descending towards the crux pitch rappel. Connor down-climbing steep snow under the crux. Once the terrain eased off we swapped crampons for snowshoes and easily plunged down to and across Lake Serene. We took a lengthy break at the near shore of Lake Serene while talking to some hikers.
Partway back across Lake Serene, looking back. There were a lot of dead-falls on this trail. One last photo from the lower section of Lake Serene trail. Our round trip time was On the other hand, to time a good window for this climb proved itself to be tricky, probably trickier than the climb itself.
We had been watching conditions continuously for a month and we both were very experienced in making winter climbs happen, but still encountered more difficult conditions than expected.
Steven's Peak-bagging Journey. Total of m elevation gain. Left home at am and back home after midnight. Third successful ascent of the north face, and the first complete ascent of North Index, by Fred and Helmy Beckey.
At the time of his ascent, Lionel H. Chute was 24 years old, and with no formal mountaineering training. It speaks highly for his courage, his climbing expertise, and his dedication and that of his companion that he persevered through four attempts on North Index, over a period of two years, and finally succeeded in conquering the difficult north face — with no specialized climbing boots, no pitons for protection, a year-old companion with minimal climbing experience, and only a foot length of nearly severed rope.
There exists no granitic bedrock in the Olympics. Climb up the gully until it flattens out, then continue northwest to the summit. Descend the same route. Make sure to head down the same gully that you ascended. Some have had trouble here, so it may be good to bring a wand to mark the location. Log in and send us updates, images, or resources. Helping people explore, conserve, learn about, and enjoy the lands and waters of the Pacific Northwest and beyond.
Tax ID: To get to the west side follow the same directions except you exit HWY 2 on Forest Service Road 62 approximatly 6 miles east of Gold Bar and maybe one mile west of the bridge over the Skykomish. Stay to the left at the first Y then to the right at the 2nd Y if you go left at the second Y you'll find yourself at the Mt. Persis Trailhead. Drive until you reach the large washout at the head of Proctor Creek.
Expect a long day. Usually climbed from late April through Early October. Can be a memorable winter climb if conditions are stable. Camping allowed near but not on the shores of Lake Serene which is ' and 3. Ridge of the N. Peak route. Localized Forecast. Index Peaks, but, it will give you an idea of what conditions could be on Mt.
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