Active Oldest Votes. I have a Bosch Bulldog and seeing that you'll be drilling for hours into concrete, would strongly encourage you to be using this or some other SDS handling tool: It depends on the diameter of your bit and how deep each hole is - I have drilled hundreds of holes with my half inch SDS bit without any sign of weakening though moderate wear on the tip is apparent.
Improve this answer. Daniel Daniel 1 1 silver badge 8 8 bronze badges. Great answer and a number to work with. You're right, using a DeWalt battery hammer drill. No SDS possible. Plenty of batteries, although my arm will probably wear out! Thanks so much, very helpful. SDS bits: hours, if not days. But the bits that come with every package of Tapcons? Well, there's a reason one comes with every pack of Tapcons Add a comment.
Michael Margolis Michael Margolis 1. Do note that the OP said he was drilling into concrete walls, not brick. Sign up or log in Sign up using Google. Sign up using Facebook. Sign up using Email and Password. Post as a guest Name. Email Required, but never shown. Featured on Meta.
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Such activities run the very real risk of damaging a drill bit or accidentally marring the concrete surface in an overzealous, poorly executed attempt at how to drill into concrete. You can, in fact, drill a hole in a concrete interior feature wall armed with nothing more than your trusty rotary drill and a masonry bit—so long as you take care to not burn out the motor of the drill or demolish the bits. Specially designed for drilling into masonry or rock using a rapid hammer action, these drills and their carbide-tipped masonry bits are widely available at tool rental shops.
When renting or buying a hammer drill, look for one with good power, ideally more than one speed setting, a stop function, and an auxiliary handle for your spare hand for enhanced comfort, control, and safety. Mark the desired position of the holes in pencil on the concrete surface, and double-check their locations before you proceed. Also, during this planning and prep work, consider the drilling depth necessary for each hole. No stop bar feature? Instead, wrap a piece of masking tape around the drill bit to show you where to stop.
Don your goggles, then insert the appropriate tungsten carbide masonry drill bit for your desired hole size into the hammer drill.
Next, get into position to drill by planting your feet firmly on the ground, shoulder-width apart. When you lean in to bore the hole, the drill bit should be perfectly perpendicular to the concrete.
Make a guide hole first. Too much and break the drill bit, too little and you will skate on the surface of the material, and blunt your drill bit. As with the rpm, pressure is size related, the larger the drill bit, the more pressure. This means using a smaller drill bit to pilot your final sized hole. This is very important for both steel and wood. Lubricant is required when drilling steel or other metals, this aides to cool the drill bit.
The problem with drill bits is they are heated to temper them, and therefore heating them again will reverse the tempering process. Diamond and tile drills need lubricant too. Usually water, with better diamond drills you will find they come with a water reservoir that can be used in situ on the fitted tiles.
Lubricant not only cools the drill bit, it acts as a catalyst to cutting and catches the swarf created from the waste materials. WD40 is a joint lubricant, and when it gets hot evaporates and therefore useless. Dormer have their own product Dormer SuperCut which is just as good. Yes, this is a very common error. Everyone has done it, make sure you have the drill bit is spinning to the right, unless you have a left handed drill bit! Easy drill bit recognition.
Segmented teeth — This one is tricky. Starrett holesaws or can be tungsten carbide for metals or masonry. A bit with a brazed tip — This is tungsten carbide tipped. This will cost a lot more than a standard drill bit for metals.
Very commonly done. Your tool needs air to go through it to cool the motor while it runs. Another common problem. If you have a 2AH, the drill may last around 2 hours before you have to charge it again, and so on. Another thing to consider is the power from a battery. So may be limited in this regard.
Especially if you want to drill large or many holes. Never drop the charger! No leads. Ease of access. Go anywhere and use your drill, up a tower, down a drain. Cordless machines are usually drivers too!
So you can use them to drive in your screws. There are many advantages highlighted above to using a mains drill. If this is the way you decide to proceed then you will need to make decisions about whether you want a clutched machine, this will stop your arms from being ripped off if the drill snatches.
If so would a dedicated SDS machine be the way to go? Looking at the difference between DIY and Professional machines the first thing you will see is the difference in price. If the DIY machines are as good, then why the difference in price? They show their wattage in a different way.
The components are better quality in the Professional machines. Check the rating plate on the side of the machines before buying them, to get a better idea of their specifications. This article was extremely remarkable, Yahh I also mistake when I was drilling. Helpful article sharing. But I have a more concerning problem, ie how can I tell if my drill bits are blunt, just by looking at them…. I have so many drill bits that some are used often and some are not but unfortunately, they are mixed up in a box.
Firstly by sight; look at the flutes to see if the drill bit is shiny, this is usually a give away to if the drill is blunt. But not always. So secondly; carefully touch the two flutes of the cutting edge. You should be able to feel the sharp edge against your fingers, if it pulls against your skin.
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