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Find the plants that work for you Ideas for seasons and regions. Design your garden Use our interactive tools to design your dream garden. Find your Hardiness Zone. Where are you based? Find your Climate Zone. Find your Heat Zone. Panicum virgatum 'Shenandoah'. Pennisetum orientale 'Karley Rose'. Miscanthus sinensis 'Little Kitten'. Miscanthus sinensis 'Little Zebra'. Miscanthus 'Purpurescens'. Miscanthus sinensis 'Little Dot'. Panicum virgatum. Miscanthus sinensis 'Strictus'. Pennisetum setaceum 'Rubrum '.
Panicum virgatum 'Prairie Sky'. Miscanthus sinensis 'Adagio'. Miscanthus sinensis 'Rotsilber'. Andropogon gerardii. Sorghastrum nutans. Fertilization: Most ornamental grasses need very little fertilizer. It is best to base any fertilizer applications on the results of a soil test.
Excessive nitrogen in the soil can lead to disease susceptibility, overly vigorous growth, and weak stems that will cause the grass to fall over. Since many grasses are attractive in the garden during winter, cutting them back is usually done in late winter or early spring. Cut stems to a few inches above ground level for best appearance.
There are a number of ways to cut back grasses. They may be cut back by hand with pruners or hedge shears, electric hedge shears, or a weed eater with a brush-cutting blade. Some evergreen grasses, such as sedges Carex or sweet flag Acorus do not recover quickly from being cut back. Comb the foliage of these plants with gloved hands in spring to remove old leaves.
Dividing: Most grasses should be divided every 3 to 4 years. If ornamental grasses are not divided, they will eventually become thin or die out in the center. It is best to divide grasses while they are a manageable size. Overgrown grasses can be incredibly difficult to dig and divide.
Dig and divide warm season grasses during early spring, just before new growth starts. Divide cool-season grasses in early fall. Most grasses have tough, vigorous root systems and may have to be divided with a shovel, saw, or ax. Hose off soil to make the roots easier to work with, then separate and replant the vigorous growth on the outer edges of the clump. Replant promptly and never let the roots dry out.
Ornamental grasses have few insect or disease problems. Rust occasionally attacks some cool season grasses, but most plants recover quickly after being cut back. Anthracnose is occasionally a problem. Diseases are most common on plants in improper growing conditions, with low light, poor air circulation, or excessive fertilization. A few grasses, such as running or prolific seeding non-native grasses, can become pests if planted in the wrong location.
To prevent running grasses from getting out of control, confine the root system in a deep bottomless container. Non-native grasses that seed vigorously should be used with care, especially near natural or wetland areas. Side Oats Gramma Bouteloua curtipendula : Side Oats Gramma is a beautiful native grass that will grow in sandy to clay soils in sun and is drought tolerant.
The green foliage has a mounding growth habit and will reach a height of 2 to 3 feet. The long bloom stalks have purple to red tinged spikelets. USDA Zones: 4 to 9. Blue Gamma Bouteloua gracilis : This native grass is also commonly called mosquito grass, as the seed heads resemble mosquito larvae.
The flowers float above the green foliage. It grows in full sun and is drought tolerant. USDA Zones: 3 to 9. Feather Reed Grass Calamagrostis x acutiflora : This cool season clump forming evergreen grass grows best in the upper Piedmont. It is a narrow, upright grass that reaches 2 to 4 feet tall with slim, tall flower heads in spring that turn golden tan in summer. These grasses will grow best in sun and is drought tolerant. Korean Feather Reed Grass Calamagrostis brachytricha : The arching dark leaves form a broad, mounded clump 3 to 4 feet tall that are covered by tall pink plumes in fall.
This species tolerates hot summers better than C. It will grow best in the South in light or part shade, and moist well-drained soil. Upland River Oats Chasmanthium latifolium : This native grass thrives in shade. In the fall, it bears oval flowers that dangle from 3 to 4 foot tall curving stems that are prized for dried flower arrangements. It can grow in sun to shade and prefers moist, rich soil, but tolerates drought once it is established. As it self-seeds abundantly, plant it in an appropriate area.
This species is sometimes called northern sea oats. USDA Zones: 5 to Japanese Forest Grass Hakonechola macra : A shade loving, deciduous i. It grows best in humus rich, well-drained soils in part shade with medium moisture. USDA Zones: Muhly Grass or Hairgrass Muhlenbergia capillaris : This showy native grass has clouds of tiny flowers that form a pinkish-purple or white haze appearing in October and fading to tan through the winter.
Clumps of very fine, blue-green to gray-green foliage rise to 2 to 3 feet tall. It is best planted in full sun, and once it is established, becomes extremely drought tolerant. USDA Zones: 6 to 9. Bamboo Muhly Muhlenbergia dumosa : This ornamental grass has arching bamboo-like stems with billowy light green foliage and grows 5 to 6 feet tall.
Bamboo muhly is an excellent non-invasive substitute for bamboo. It grows best in full sun and is drought resistant once established. It grows in clumps that are around 3 to 5 feet in both height and spread. Some dwarf cultivars exist, so check the plant tag if you want to use it for a privacy screen. Another North American native, switchgrass is an adaptable plant that grows in both moist and dry conditions.
It tends to prefer sandy or clay soil and might flop in soil that is too rich. Thus, you can skip fertilizer unless you have nutrient-deficient soil. The plant grows to around 3 to 6 feet tall with a 2- to 3-foot spread, offering a moderate amount of privacy for a garden. Switchgrass also is an important plant in the ecosystem, providing oil-rich seeds for birds in winter.
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